Wednesday, April 19, 2000
Western culture has penetrated Bangkok with a vengeance. Everything from Blockbuster videos to Boots the chemist is here (Ernst in Phuket said he was so grateful when Boots arrived because he could finally buy bubble bath). I confess that I was ecstatic to see a Starbucks and immediately went in to have a Latte. Despite the influx of everything Western, you cannot forget for long that you are not at home. It is a constant struggle to communicate. When I want to go somewhere by taxi, someone writes the name in Thai for me. The Thai alphabet is indecipherable to me and even though many people speak basic English (much more common than in China), it is often not sufficient to prevent both parties getting frustrated at simple tasks like trying to change a plane ticket over the phone. I am always so grateful to find people who speak English well enough that we are not both straining to make ourselves understood. Yes, the ugly American who doesn’t speak any Asian languages and expects everyone to accommodate her. Anyway, most taxi drivers speak enough English to ask the standard questions – do they all go to the Taxi driver school of English? “Where do you come from? How long you stay in Bangkok? How long you been in Bangkok? Where you stay? You look Thai. You no Thai? You look Thai.” That’s their side of the conversation. I have started varying my side because the questions are always the same.
I thought I?d be able to walk most places, but the map is not to scale and the city is huge with large distances between areas of interest. So I?ve taken the public boat down the river, 3 wheel open-aired Tuk Tuks (life endangering due to pollution and driving methods and hard on the bones as they have no suspension), taxis, and buses. I have yet to take the skyway, but I?ve finally figured out what stop my hotel is at so I guess I?ll try that too. I discovered that the Tuk Tuks and government are in cahoots. They charge you an incredibly cheap rate and you have to buy something at an ?official? store. They then get gas coupons according to how much you spend and how long you stay. One driver dropped me off at the ruby and sapphire store saying ?You just look. No have to buy. Stay as long as you want. I wait.? When I emerged 5 minutes later empty handed, I was accused of not staying long enough. Had I only stayed 10 minutes he would have received more coupons and suddenly I wasn?t his best friend anymore. Well, the ride was good fun anyway. You brace your feet against the front and hold on for dear life while he merrily careens around the traffic sometimes boldly (stupidly) driving right down the wrong side of the street in heavy traffic. Here is a view from the Chao Phraya River showing a modern block on the left next to the old poorer buildings.
I can’t figure out the deal at the smaller temples. I walked into a few non-touristy temples and was greeted by English speaking men who were not monks. They spent time with me explaining about the temple and asking me the usual questions. But they didn’t seem to want any money – or maybe they’re just too subtle and I haven’t picked up on it. The Thais take their religion very seriously. They go to the temple daily and when they can’t make it, they pray at one of the mini shrines which is outside just about every shop, house or building. Even the hotels have one. Apparently, it is supposed to bring good luck to give money for new temples. So there are so many new temples, they can’t find enough monks to live in them – some 15% are empty. Monks receive food from the local community. Each morning and noon, they have meals. It seems about 90% of Thai men become monks for at least 3 months, usually before they get married. They believe this ensures that they will be good men and that they will not be re-incarnated as an animal.
Friday, April 21, 2000
Last night I was invited to dine with a friend of a friend from London. Michael is a tall handsome ex-police colonel who used to specialize in drug enforcement. He now concentrates on training and racing his 30 horses. He has 3 bodyguards who trail him everywhere. I asked if he was in constant danger from his previous job but he said they are all policemen who still want to show respect by escorting him around. Well I didn’t know what to think but we had a great time. He took me to a trendy Vietnamese/Thai restaurant with lots of beautiful people and then we wandered around the night markets of Patpong (all 5 of us!).
The temples are elaborate and gaudy affairs. Many people try to attach gold leaf to some of the smaller buddhas so they look like they are flaking. The bright bits of gold, glass and porcelain bits glitter in the sunshine. The scent of jasmine pervades the temples thanks to many gifts from worshipers. Monks in saffron robes glide about or sit muttering their texts beneath their breath unfazed by the tourist traffic.
Dress code is very strict to visit the sights in Bangkok? no shorts, no short sleeves, no sandals etc. However, you can borrow clothing at the entrance. Just about everyone ends up borrowing something. This means that badly dressed tourists look even more ridiculous in their borrowed, mis-matching garb ? men wrap sarongs around their shorts, women clomp around in someone else?s shoes. I think every hotel in Bangkok must have donated their lost and found clothing from the past 50 years. In the Grand Palace is the most sacred object of Buddhist Thailand ? the Emerald Buddha. He sits high up on a series of gold platforms. He is only about 1ft tall and carved from jade. He has 3 sets of gold costumes ? for the winter, summer and rainy season. The king himself presides over the changing of his clothes.
